The sample stage is where most first-time brand founders lose money, time, and confidence. They send a manufacturer their design, receive a sample that looks nothing like what they imagined, and are not sure what to do next. They either accept a sample that is not right and end up with bulk production they cannot sell, or they give up entirely.
The problem is almost never the manufacturer. It is a lack of clarity at the briefing stage. The more specific you are before the sample is made, the closer the first sample will be to what you want, and the fewer revision rounds you will need.
Here is exactly what to expect from the t-shirt sampling process and what you need to demand from any manufacturer you work with.
What Is a T-Shirt Sample?
A t-shirt sample is a physical prototype of your finished product, made before bulk production begins. Its purpose is to confirm that the fabric, fit, construction, and decoration match your specifications before you commit to producing hundreds or thousands of units.
A pre-production sample is not a rough draft — it should be as close to your final product as possible. If your manufacturer treats the sample as a starting point for negotiation rather than an accurate first attempt, that is a red flag.
Types of T-Shirt Samples
Fit sample
A fit sample tests the size and construction of the t-shirt. It is usually made in a single colour, often not your final colour, and focuses purely on whether the fit, proportions, and construction are correct. This comes before a fabric or print approval.
Fabric strike-off
If you are using a custom fabric colour or a custom knit, a fabric strike-off is a small piece of the actual fabric produced to your specification. You approve the colour, weight, and hand feel before the fabric is cut for your sample.
Pre-production sample (PP sample)
The pre-production sample is the most important sample you will receive. It is made in your final fabric, your final colour, with your final decoration — exactly as the bulk production should be. This is the sample you sign off on before bulk production begins. Keep one copy. Your manufacturer keeps one copy. The bulk production should match this sample.
What to Include in Your Sample Brief
This is where most brands fail. A vague brief produces a vague sample. Your sample brief should include the following:
• Fabric type, composition, and GSM (e.g., 100% combed ringspun cotton, 200 GSM)
• Fabric colour with a Pantone or physical reference swatch — not just a colour name
• A flat sketch or tech pack showing every seam, pocket, hem, and neckline detail
• A size chart with finished measurements for every size you need
• Decoration details — position, size, colour breakdown, and method (screen print, embroidery, etc.)
• Label and branding requirements — neck label type, care label placement, hang tag specs
What a Good Sampling Process Looks Like
A well-run manufacturer will confirm receipt of your brief, ask clarifying questions before starting the sample (not after), and provide a timeline for sample delivery — typically two to three weeks for a first fit sample.
You should receive a physical sample, not just photos. Photos can hide construction issues that are immediately obvious when you hold the garment in your hands. If a manufacturer asks you to approve a sample based on photos only for bulk production sign-off, decline.
When your sample arrives, check every detail methodically: fabric weight and hand feel, colour accuracy against your reference, fit across the body, seam quality, neckband tension, and decoration quality. Document anything that needs to change with clear, specific notes and photos.
How Many Sample Rounds to Expect
For a first-time sample from a new manufacturer, plan for two rounds of revision before you reach a sample you are happy with. Some brands get it right in one round; complex designs may take three. This is normal and is the purpose of the sampling stage.
Do not approve a sample under pressure or time constraint. The sample you approve is what your bulk production should match. If the sample is not right, the bulk will not be right either. It is far cheaper to get the sample right now than to produce 500 units you cannot sell.
What to Demand from Your Manufacturer
• A clear timeline for sample delivery before you pay any sampling fee
• A physical sample — not photos for bulk production approval
• A retained PP sample in both your possession and the manufacturer’s
• Written confirmation that bulk production will match the approved PP sample
• Pre-shipment inspection capability before your bulk order ships
Why Choose Zega Apparel?
Zega Apparel produces fit samples and pre-production samples for custom t-shirts with a two-to-three week turnaround from an approved brief. We work with brands at every stage, if you do not have a tech pack yet, our design team can help you develop one from a reference image or sketch.
All sampling at Zega is done in our own facility. We produce from a 200-piece MOQ, and we do not push brands to skip sampling rounds to get to bulk faster. Getting the sample right is how we build long-term relationships with the brands we work with.
Start your custom t-shirt sampling at Zega Apparel
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How much does a custom t-shirt sample cost?
Custom t-shirt sample costs typically range from $30 to $400 per sample depending on the complexity of the design, the fabric, and the decoration method. Most manufacturers charge a sampling fee that is credited against your first bulk order. Simple samples in standard fabric are at the lower end; custom fabric sourcing or complex decoration pushes the cost higher.
Q: How long does it take to get a custom t-shirt sample?
A first fit sample from an established manufacturer typically takes two to three weeks from receipt of an approved tech pack and brief. Pre-production samples in final fabric and colour take a similar timeframe. Complex designs, custom fabric sourcing, or multiple decoration methods can extend the timeline to four to six weeks.
Q: What is a pre-production sample for t-shirts?
A pre-production (PP) sample is a t-shirt made in your final fabric, colour, and decoration — exactly as the bulk production should look and feel. It is the final sample you approve before bulk production begins. Both you and your manufacturer keep a copy as the quality reference for the full production run.
Q: Can I get a t-shirt sample without a tech pack?
You can get a sample without a formal tech pack, but results will be less predictable and more revision rounds will likely be needed. At minimum, provide a reference garment or detailed reference photos, a size measurement chart, fabric specifications, and clear decoration details. A good manufacturer will help you develop a tech pack if you do not have one.
Q: What should I check when a custom t-shirt sample arrives?
Check fabric weight and hand feel against your spec, colour accuracy using a Pantone reference, fit and measurements across all key points, seam quality and tension at stress areas, neckband consistency and stretch recovery, decoration accuracy and durability, and label placement. Document all issues in writing with photos before requesting changes
